From:	Joe McWilliams	Electronic:	jmcwilliams -A- sfasu.edu
Subject:	RE: RE: Need help identifying broken fitting	Date:	Sat Aug 14 22:42:48 2010
Response to:	14153

Nice 'How To" Duane. This one goes in my files. Simple, ingenious and it works. This is easy to drill and fit an easy-out, but it's the aluminum-steel corrosion bond that defeats an otherwise good procedure. I've broken numerous easy-outs trying it (I'm a slow learner). Joe ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS ----- JOE: THAT RUSTY OBJECT IS A BROKEN OFF SCREW AS NOTED BY STEVE. IT IS A 12/24 SIZE AND DIFFICULT TO REMOVE WITH AN EASY OUT. I SUGGEST (AND ALWAYS USE) THIS METHOD: IF YOU HAVE A WIRE WELDER-- GRIND THE RUST OFF THE BROKEN SCREW SURFACE. PUT A WELD BEAD ON THE EXPOSED STEEL AND BUILD IT UP UNTIL THE WELD TOWER IS A LITTLE ABOVE THE CASE SURFACE AND WELD A 3/16 ROD TO THE WELD TOWER. THIS ROD AT RIGHT ANGLE TO THE SCREW AXIS BECOMES THE LEVER ARM TO BACK THE SCREW OUT. THE HEAT FROM THIS PROCEDURE USUALLY BREAKS THE CORROSION BOND BETWEEN THE ALUMINUM-STEEL AND THE DIFFERENTIAL IN COEFFICIENT EXPANSION BETWEEN ALUM/STEEL IS SO MUCH THAT EXTRACTION BY ROTATION BECOMES VERY EASY. IF IT DOESN'T START COMING OUT EASY, HEAT THE STEEL LEVER ARM UNTIL CLOSE TO RED HOT BEFORE ROTATING. THIS NEVER FAILS FOR ME AND I USE IT ON ANY CASE BOLT WHERE THE HEAD IS DAMAGED. GOOD LUCK. DUANE TAYLOR ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS ----- This fitting is broken off in the left crank case, behind the oil dip stick hole (see attached pic, screw driver bit points to the fitting). Can anyone tell me what is supposed to mount in this position? Thanks. Joe