From:Martin e-mail:mrmarty51-A-midrivers.com
Subject:RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Clutch components, release screw, is it bad ??? Date:Sat Jul 13 16:26:37 2013
Response to:18645
Oh Yes, I do believe in what Mutt says, not too often that He has been wrong on what fits what. ;<}
I think that I had better get a new worm/screw to get away from this weakened screw/fork assembly, carrying the load of the clutch on just 1/2 of the fork is probably what was causing most of the bind. I bent it all back into shape again but, I dont think it will hold.
On Mine adjuster screw, it has a deep crowned nut, when that nut is tightened down, it locks the threads on the adjuster screw.

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Believe Mutt. Mine had them & worked so that is how I thought it was 'sposed to be.

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Nope, no ball bearings between the rod sections. All 3 rods are hardened to reduce wear. The nail head left side rod, the 1 3/16" center rod and the 4 7/8" right side rod is all there is.

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There are supposed to be a ball bearings between the sections of release rod to reduce the tendency for the rotating clutch from drilling into the clutch adjustment screw in the worm. My adjuster screws (2- '48s) have enough screw sticking out that a lock nut holds the cover on.

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The clutch release rod, sticks out of the shaft 3/4 of an inch, the adjuster screw seems to have to go into the adjuster nut a very long ways, I am guessing about even with the case cover surface, should I install a spacer rod or, a couple of bearing balls into the shaft so the adjuster screw does`nt have to go in so far???

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The worm screw fork for the clutch cable had been twisted, the clutch was real tough to pull then, it would not release.
You probably can not tell much by the pics. but I thought I would give it a try.
The holes in the fork are tweaked, kind of bad, I have tried to straighten them but, when I took it apart, it appeared that the cables T was pulling from one side only.Is there a modified screw/fork that is a bit thicker, to keep them from bending ???
I had the clutch cable routed like the brake cable, through one of the holes in the top triple tree bracket, like the brake cable, in the last pic. that I will be posting on this matter. It seemed that the short s, by going through that hole had quite a bind on the cable but, it looked proper. I will reroute the clutch and brake cables so they will make their run under the top plate.
I had lubed the cable liberally, with Break free, for the silicone, the cable did`nt seem to be sliding freely within its housing so I am now lubeing it with Moly engine assembly grease, it is a real light grease, and the cable now seems to be sliding freely.