From: | Mutt | e-mail: | pigstye13-A-aol.com |
Subject: | RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Electrical issue with 63 scat | Date: | Sun Jun 12 07:57:17 2016 |
Response to: | 21314 |
Good morning Gene, has the Scat ever actually ran? You say ya have changed every thing, but I don't see where ya changed the rotor, (which would have been my first item to check) ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS ----- Thanks! We will check that' tomorrow when we look at her again. ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS ----- Make sure the brake light points are open when the ign. points are closed or it will steel the electric. ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS ----- Gene, One coil/points runs the ignition and stoplight, the other coil/points runs the horn, headlight and taillight. So when you hold the horn button while kicking, it shows that the lighting coil and points are working. But what about the ignition coil? You can do a rough test with an ohmmeter - the coil should be neither shorted nor open. Measure the impedance of the lighting coil. The ignition coil should be roughly the same. Which I think is only a couple of ohms. The coils are different. One has thicker wires and is designed to handle more current. Physically you can swap them. Electrically, it might NOT be a good idea. Mutt? Duane? Is this a good idea? Just to make sure, have you swapped the points? I've had some points that looked fine, but won't pass 'lectrikity even after filing them. Of course an ohmmeter will do it too. An ohmmeter will quickly prove out your wiring harness. A $20 multimeter from Radio Shack or an auto parts store is one of the best tools around! |
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