Wiring help

[brian4.2]

I have a 1958 Hummer that I am finishing for my daughter. I have the parts manual and repair manual. I did not take it apart. The bike has a magneto, a horn, a toggle switch (high-low beam?) and a stop light switch. No battery or voltage regulator.

Are all the components grounded to the frame? Im used to seeing a lot of grounding to frame in wire diagrams.

I am using the wiring diagram "Figure 5B-9". Unless someone tells me it's wrong. It includes the horn and the 4 wire magneto. But not the Key/lighting/ignition switch

I am working on the handlebars right now (rigid).
Questions
1) The horn button seems straight forward, 2 wires, ground one of them. Ground it where?
2) I have a handlebar mounted toggle switch, hi-low i think but it only had 3 wires coming off it. all the drawings show 4 wires?
3) I also have this complicated "key" assembly, seems to be an ignition light switch. looks like it fits in the gas tank?

I have a new wiring harness kit (multiple wires with orange instruction page) but I cant seem to match them up.

[Jgeekie54]

Maybe this will help
Fingers crossed

[hennesse]

I have a 1958 Hummer that I am finishing for my daughter. I have the parts manual and repair manual. I did not take it apart. The bike has a magneto, a horn, a toggle switch (high-low beam?) and a stop light switch. No battery or voltage regulator.

Brian,

I think you have a mismatched engine / chassis. This is quite common. The 1955 to 1959 Hummer (B -series) has a magneto, no battery, no voltage regulator, no ignition switch, a small rotary off-low-high headlight switch mounted on the side of the upper triple tree, and a squeeze bulb horn.

The 1954 to 1959 Model 165 has a generator, battery and regulator, two holes in the gas tank - one for gas, one for a large rotary ignition, parking light, head & tail light switch, and a handlebar mounted high/low beam switch on left handlebar, horn switch on right handlebar.

The 1960-1966 models were magneto, similar wiring to the Hummer, but electric horn, and some other things.

It looks like you have a Hummer or 1960s engine in a Model 165 chassis, so the wiring diagrams, and wiring harness will not match up with what you've got. We're going to have to be creative.

First, we need to identify what you've got. What is the serial number of your engine? Take off the points cover. How many sets of points do you have? Is there a coil mounted on the frame, under the gas tank? Take a couple pictures of the overall bike so we can get a good idea of the chassis.

[brian4.2]

Thanks, The vin #58B1581. 2 sets of points. Yes a 6V coil mounted under the gas tank. Gas tank has the hole for the lighting/ignition switch

[brian4.2]

more pics

[brian4.2]

more pics

[hennesse]

Wow - it's beautiful.

If you look at the How To Restore : Speedometers page, you'll see that the speedo is from 1951, and it appears that the entire chassis is a 1951 Model 165. In my opinion, this is the best looking of all the Hummer-series. I'm a little biased, as I had one years ago. If you look at this page scroll to the bottom, and there is Barbara with my 1951 in the middle of the National Mall - before the U.S. Park Police came and chased us off.

Your engine, however, is a 1958 Hummer, which bolts up and works fine. But we'll have to do some custom wiring. The Hummer does not use an ignition switch - just kick it and it will start. It has a kill button on the cover next to the points. The Model 165 chassis has an ignition-park-lights switch mounted in the gas tank. I would suggest you use this to turn the lights on and off, and forget the ignition function. Just don't park it in a high-crime area.

The Super 10, Pacer, Scat wiring diagram is the closest thing. But since you don't have the Hummer headlight off-low-high switch, you'll have to modify the wiring to use the Model 165 ignition-park-lights switch along with the Model 165 handlebar low-high switch. There are some layout differences - the 1960s Super 10, Pacer, Scats have the horn located in the front fork area, while the Model 165 chassis has the horn on the frame towards the rear of the bike.

We don't know what model your wiring harness was originally intended for, but whatever it was, it's not gonna work right with this custom job. My suggestion is that you just buy some spools of black, red, and green wire, and wire it up by hand. Once you've got it wired up and working correctly, go back and modify the harness so it fits the custom application. Yes, it's double work, but I think you'll save yourself a lot of heartache and head-scratching. A Brother p-touch label maker might be a big help for marking wires. Masking tape and a Sharpie works just fine.

I will look over the wiring diagram this weekend and try to offer some more detailed info. Hopefully, the above will get you started in the right direction.

Dave

[Bud D]

Do the wires you have match up with the diagram you have? That is where I would start. If so you will have to extend some wires. Also the horn you show won't work on the magneto.

[hennesse]

you'll see that the speedo is from 1951, and it appears that the entire chassis is a 1951 Model 165.

Whoops - 1951 Model 125, not 165. Brain fart.

[brian4.2]

Thanks Dave and all.

I want to put the handlebars on so I can push the bike around. Do the handlebars need to have the powder coating cleared to make contact in the steering stem?

I'll pull 3 wires through for the high-low toggle and 2 wires for the horn.

Why won't this horn work with this magneto?

Brian